Shirt dress musings...and a mini giveaway

Who doesn't love a shirt dress?  They're simple and cute, yet still manage to retain a vintage edge.  Plus, you've got your whole outfit sorted at once, just do up a few buttons and you're good to go. I love them.  I've got a few in my wardrobe but my absolute favourite is a navy polka dot one from Primark that's definitely on its last legs.  Amazingly for Primark tat, it's seven years old but this really and truly is its last summer - if nothing else, the many washes it's had has faded the colour and it looks very weary.  It's time for a replacement.

I've been on the search for the perfect shirt dress pattern for awhile, and seem to have amassed quite a few vintage ones.  Who would have thought there was such variety?

Miss Moneypenny... 

...dinner lady chic...

...raglan sleeves...

 ...almost perfect but with strange collar...

...Vogue chic gorgeousness...

...Mad Men stylee 1)...

...Mad Men stylee 2)...

I wanted to make one that I'd wear as much as my beloved worn out Primark specimen.  There was a big temptation to make another version of the kimono-sleeved wiggle dress I made for the Mad Men dress challenge.  But strangely, there's not much call for skin tight wiggle dresses down at the school gates and it probably wouldn't get worn as much as it deserves to do.

So.... amidst all that vintage glory, what did I decide on?  Well, if you follow Peter on Pinterest, you'll know he has a board entitled Worst Women's Patterns EVER and yes, on first glance, you'd be forgiven for thinking that my chosen pattern - the monster that is McCall's 4769 - deserves to be cast amongst the mutant patterns there.  

But look carefully and you'll notice that it does have a lot of potential.  The collar shaping is pretty and it's got just the right amount of shape to the skirt - not too full and not too pencilly. Once I've chopped a whole foot off the length, I KNOW this pattern will be awesome, I just know it.... It's like going to view a house and being able to see the home of your dreams underneath the artexed ceilings and stone cladding.  Plus, it's too late to change my mind now because I've cut it out.  I'll be using a sky blue and red polka dot cotton, along with the red vintage buttons you can see on my blog header.

Oh gawd, I'm getting the beginnings of cold feet now that I've written it all down.  I really hope I haven't pissed on my chips.  Whatever the result, I'll post the finished dress here, whether I end up with a stunning replacement or end up looking like the blonde frump modelling view C.  


In the meantime, I've decided to do the decent thing and release a couple of my shirt dress patterns back into the wild in the form of a mini giveaway. First up is Simplicity 6700, which is very similar to the Lisette Traveler dress pattern, this is a half size pattern (14 1/2), bust 35

Also up for grabs is Maudella 5184 - if you can see past the helmeted matrons on the front, I'm sure this will make a very chic shirtdress. It's bust size 38.

If you'd like any of them, just leave a comment on this post, stating which one you're interested in (you're welcome to put your name down for both) and I'll draw names out of a hat.  I'll leave this open until the end of the day on Sunday 3rd June.  Good luck!


Does anybody have any other shirt dress patterns they'd like to share?  I'm still open to suggestions for next time around - this isn't the first shirt dress I've made and it certainly won't be the last! Enjoy the sunshine. x

Another Peony, this time in gingham....

I'm currently in a state of trauma and it's all because of The Bridge.  Two reasons: 1) the series has now finished so there's officially nothing good on telly any more and 2) the events at the end of the final episode completely finished me off emotionally.  Maybe you need to read point number four from this post to get a better idea of what I'm wittering on about, but basically I need cheering up, big time, which is where my new gingham dress comes to the rescue. 

This is my second version of the Colette Patterns Peony dress, which is in navy gingham.  If you've read this post and seen this board on Pinterest, then you'll know I've got a serious crush on gingham - it just lifts the spirits completely, which is why it's the perfect dress to photograph on my sad "end of The Bridge" day.

Sad face to start off with.....

...wahay, a big smile five minutes later 

The fabric is a cheap-as-chips poly cotton, which my local fabric shop was selling off for £1 a metre in a closing down sale.  The quality of the fabric was pretty shoddy and transparent, which is why I decided to underline it. Blimey, what a difference. From looking pretty sorry for itself and actually a bit grey around the edges, the gingham suddenly looks fresher, cleaner, whiter and quite frankly much more expensive, when coupled with a nice white muslin underlining.  I'd highly recommend underlining a cheap fabric -  as well as massively improving the appearance, it also gives the fabric much more structure and strength.  

When I made my first Peony, I made quite a few adjustments to the back bodice, which still came out baggy due to the stretchy nature of the cotton pique fabric I used.  This time though, my beautiful underlined gingham behaved itself and the bodice sewed up without a hitch - all my adjustments from the first time round working perfectly with a woven fabric.  Fit-wise, this second version is more or less spot on, but I still decided on  a few further tweaks to the overall pattern:

I reduced the width of the boat neck in order to hide my bra straps, and lowered the curve of the neckline by about an inch.

I added pleats to the skirt section rather than gathers, inspired by Beth's lovely version.

I eliminated facings in favour of gingham bias tape. This was used on the neckline and also on the sleeves.  I blatantly copied this from Lauren whose own sleeveless gingham version of the Peony I adore.  Here's her tutorial for using bias tape as a facing. 

In a rare moment of forward planning, I also took a bit of time to try and cut the pattern pieces out to ensure the gingham lined up. It was MOSTLY a success and luckily it doesn't bother me too much if my makes aren't absolutely perfect.  Considering how slapdash my method was, I think the lining up of the checks is pretty damn miraculous.

This could well become my favourite dress of the summer - it's comfortable, fits well and feels fab to wear because of the lovely underlining.

It's also navy blue and white, so goes perfectly with most things, especially red accessories!  What's not to love? Hoorah for gingham, it definitely cheers you up! Happy Monday everybody. x

Mystery Vintage Dress

A few months ago I was given this beautiful vintage dress by my mother-in-law.  She bought it from a vintage shop several years ago but having only ever wore it once, decided she'd like to pass it onto somebody who would appreciate it.  Me, me, me!!  

It fits me perfectly, but the dress and my figure are probably not the best pairing.  I'm too curvy and I think the style would look best on somebody taller, flatter and a bit more gamine.  Nevertheless, it's a wonderful period garment that I'm very happy to have in my wardrobe and get out to play with from time to time.  I'd also love to give my mother-in-law a little more information on what period the dress hails from, and date it as accurately as I can.  This is where I need your help, lovely readers!

My guesstimate would be that this is a 1930's piece.  Perhaps earlier rather than later in the decade as there's definitely a hint of flapper style about it.  I also feel very strongly that this dress would have been worn with a hat as was typical then. If anybody who has knowledge of clothing from that period can shed any light, I'd be SO grateful.  Or indeed if you have anything at all to say on when you think the dress might originate from, please chip in, I may be completely wrong so I'd be really interested to hear your thoughts.

Here are a few tailoring details:

The dress is totally handmade, from what appears to be plum coloured silk crepe with dark green lace inset details.  There's an impressive amount of hand finishing too.

It has two kick pleats to the front and back and a dropped waist.

The neckline is low, with a ruffle detail and shoulder tucks.  

It has what I think is called a dicky i.e. a detachable triangle of fabric that fits across a low neckline to preserve one's modesty!

The sleeves are slightly puffed with a cuffed edge and lace inserts to add volume. 

It's just below knee length on me (I'm 5' 2").

There's a lovely shaped detail to the skirt, which is mirrored on the back bodice yoke.  

This is what made me think it was reminiscent of 1930's styles as my 1930's blouse has a V-shaped yoke.  

But when I re-examined it more closely, the V on my blouse was pointing down rather than up like the dress.  Anybody know if this is significant?

So, lots of nice period details, I just need to work out exactly what period we're talking about.  What do you think?  I know there are many, many bloggers out there who are very knowledgeable about such things, and I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thank you so much in advance! x

Portobello Curtain Blouse

Yes, in true Sound of Music style, my latest make started life as a pair of old curtains. 

I bought them from a stall on Portobello Road market, along with these buttons, and just knew the two together would make a fab vintage style blouse.  

I used Megan Nielsen's Banksia pattern, primarily because I was drawn in by the oversized Peter Pan collar. The pattern was a delight: the instructions and diagrams are clear and well written and I like the fact that she gives lots of other suggestions for tweaking the pattern for different looks.  I made a size small, but ended up taking it in quite a lot at the sides.  If I'd taken the trouble to make a muslin, instead of slacking as usual, I'd have probably cut a medium at the bust (the small only just fits), tapering to an XS at the hips. Ah well. I'm reasonably pleased with the fit, but will probably wear it tucked in as it looks more flattering that way.

What else can I say? Well, I learnt a new technique - inserting a placket - which sadly I inserted upside down (sigh) - you can't tell though!  The collar seams are finished with bias tape rather than a facing, which was another plus point for me - facings are just tiresome.  I liked the look of the inside collar so much, I finished the sleeve edges the same way.

I'm pretty pleased with my Banksia and will almost certainly make it again with a few tweaks.  I've convinced myself it's definitely more Anthropologie chic than Von Trapp frump.  

I just need the UK weather to improve so I can wear it in what is technically supposed to be spring season.  I suppose that's what the cardigan was invented for…..!  x

The Frumble Fabric Giveaway Winner......

.....is Clare from Magpie Makes!!! Congratulations Clare, please send me an email and I'll forward you the special £25 voucher code to spend in the Frumble online shop.

Many thanks to everybody for participating.  Have a great weekend. x

Frumble Fabric Giveaway

Hoorah, hoorah!  It's stopped raining and the sun is out! What more could you want? Well how about a little fabric talk, followed by a fabulous giveaway, courtesy of Frumble Fabrics. Frumble is a relatively new online store (it was set up at the end of 2010) offering a cool, eclectic range of fabrics and some seriously covetable haberdashery lovelies. There's a great range of quilting fabrics, dressmaking favourites such as ginghams and polka dots and a nice selection of corduroys. Here's what's currently floating my boat....

A small section devoted to sewing themed fabrics, including these beauties:

Vintage dress patterns

Oh so elegant vintage ladies - I've already made some gorgeous make-up bags out of this fabric

Super-cool scooter/mod fabric - perfect for man presents

This lovely chevron print that I can really see as a sweet A-line skirt

And that's just the fabric!  In their haberdashery section they have some really useful, time-saving piped bias binding, a selection of handmade bias binding in the prettiest fabrics,

Gingham cherries? Yes please

and my personal, all time favourite: lace edged, polka dot bias binding!!

Words fail me...

I must admit, when I first discovered Frumble, I was intrigued.  It was as if they'd read my mind and decided to stock all the exact little sewing extras I've been dreaming of.  I contacted them, and co-owner Mat (who runs the business with partner Monica) kindly agreed to answer my nosey questions AND offer a very generous giveaway to boot.  Enjoy...

Where does the name Frumble come from?

"When we were trying to decide on a name we sat down for a morning and had a little brainstorm. We wanted a name for our business that wasn’t necessarily related to sewing or fabric but something that was only one word long, simple, easy to remember and quite fun to say. Several gallons of tea later, we came up with Frumble and straight away we felt this was a perfect name, it just felt right. After using the name for a couple of months we actually found that the ‘Fr’ in Frumble was a bit of a problem on the phone and no one quite knew what we were saying, so we ended up with a mini tag line we use on the phone. “Frumble, It’s like crumble only with an F” and we found we always gets a bit of a giggle from the person at the other end of the phone."

What did you both do in your previous lives?

"The Frumble family has a wide range of previous background experiences from product design, civil engineering, fine art, sewing to IT. This broad range of skills makes for an ‘interesting’ mix but we have found that it was more than enough to get us where we are today. We have designed and built the website ourselves, selected all our products and of course, learnt to lovingly package it up to get orders off to the post office in good time. A relatively small family-run team have done this without any external professionals and we hope this organic and nurtured approach is one thing that has helped us to succeed over the last 18 months."

What's your criteria for deciding which fabrics to stock?

"This is a lot simpler than you might expect. We tend to choose fabrics we like. I think the male and female perspectives sometimes make for an unusual selection of fabric. There are just so many fabrics to choose from out there, so narrowing it down is tricky. If we had an unlimited supply of money and an unlimited supply of space, we would have a lot of fabric. We've been keen to try and find fabric from designers that aren’t readily available. This is hard to do, but we think we've achieved it quite well - we've brought in a large selection of fabric from a new US company called Blend Fabrics, along with our ‘geek chic’ inspired fabrics from Timeless Treasures."

Your haberdashery section is awesome and you've really thought about the finishing touches that dressmakers need. How on earth do you choose what to stock?

"We hope that our haberdashery range is fairly unique. We try to offer some of the essentials, but also look for products that are hard to get hold of. We love our new lace edged polka dot bias binding, and have had excellent feedback on it. We also make our own bias binding, which can be fairly time consuming, but we think that it's good to be able to provide something that we've been able to produce ourselves.

Our biggest problem is that we have too many new products to share, we have no end of haberdashery queueing up to be listed online! This includes some beautiful, made in England, 100% cotton lace that we think is absolutely gorgeous."

Where do you see Frumble Fabrics going in the next year?

"We are just about to move into a new business unit, close to the city centre of Birmingham. This should give us a little more space and focus, which we hope will help us develop our brand. We try to offer excellent customer service, as well as little personal touches for our customers.

 

One thing we'd love to continue doing is getting to know our customers.  Over the last 18 months, we've been able to build up friendly relationships with our customers and really discover the kind of things they like. We love this kind of customer interaction and hope there's a lot more of it in the future. By opening up an actual space for Frumble, we hope we can meet a few customers in person too, which should be great."

Thank you Mat and Monica, I can't wait to see the new lace selection!

Frumble have very generously offered a £25 gift voucher to one lucky reader.  To enter the giveaway, take a look at the Frumble website and leave a comment on this post saying which fabric you'd choose if you won.  The giveaway is open internationally and closes at midnight GMT on Friday 4th May.  The winner will be chosen at random.

Good luck everybody!

Let's get this party started…

…with my awesome PJ's!  In this post I said that if I made two pairs of PJ bottoms I'd be happy and if a matching top happened to turn up too, I'd be ecstatic.  Well I'm ecstatic!  So without further ado, here are my newest bedtime buddies.

Both pairs of bottoms were made using Simplicity 9871, officially the easiest pattern in the world.  They were ridiculously easy to make, but that's no excuse for not taking the time to make them beautifully, so I French seamed everything in sight.  

Very satisfying.  The only change I made to the pattern was to chop three inches off the length.  And for those of you who are interested and are a similar size to me, I made a size small (the pattern runs from XS to XL).  

For the top, I used the Colette Sorbetto pattern, with added sleeves.  I got the sleeve pattern from Sew Incidentally's blog - she's very kindly made it available as a downloadable PDF, what a superstar! The Sorbetto turns out to be the perfect pattern for a PJ top.  The centre pleat adds just enough interest to stop it looking too boring, and the fact that there are no waist darts gives you the roominess essential for slouching around. I love the colour of this shirting, it's the exact colour of my eyes (it's much more grey in real life) but yes, it is a bit boring, so I added some pale blue gingham bias binding around the edges to girlify it.  

I'm also aware that because of the colour and style, the top and bottom worn together look more than a little like hospital scrubs!  Ahem. I'm not worried though, I can always mix and match and wear my lovely floral bottoms with the top as a change. Like this...

Obligatory 'jumping on the bed with mad face' shot

I'm so pleased I've finally taken the plunge and made pyjamas. They're quick and easy to make and it's a great way to use up fabric that you're still undecided about. If they don't look perfect, who cares?  You'll be in bed blissfully asleep in your handmade lovelies.

Now, if you've read this post, you'll know that our fearless PJ leader Karen is off to San Francisco in May to take in the sights of that amazing city, and have a week of one-to-one sewing tutelage!  I'm SSOO envious!  There's a nice little coincidence coming up though - as part of her round-up post, Karen also wants to know what our current bedtime reading is, and wouldn't you know it, I'm reading the Tales of the City series by Armistead Maupin.  

If you haven't read this wonderful series of books, I'd highly recommend that you do.  They're set in San Francisco (there's the coincidence!) and follow a real mixed bag of friends from the 1970's to the 1990's.  They're charming, funny, romantic, sad, the characters are fab and they're very, very readable.  Every few years, when I'm between books ,or ill, or bored, or all three, I re-read them and I never tire of them.

Enjoy your time in San Francisco Karen, you'll have a ball. And thank you so much for organising the Pyjama Party - it's been fab.  x